Most kids love helping in the kitchen… for about 30 minutes. That was definitely the case at the Los Alamos Valley Men’s Club luau when Raymond “Ray” Williams was growing up. He remembers being the only one who didn’t succumb to boredom and wander off. His goal: getting an apron. The men wore them when they worked the pit, and they told him he had to earn it.
So, he stayed. For the entire event, Ray kept watch over a whole roasting pig, close enough to the heat that it, in his words, “melted his face off.” He was nine years old.
Today, he’s a meat processing instructor at Lompoc Federal Prison and the co-owner of Whiskey Bent BBQ in Los Alamos. In 2025, he participated in the World Butcher’s Challenge in Paris, France, with five other Americans.
Ray sat down with us to share his knowledge as a long-time pitmaster who knows the Santa Maria Style barbecue tradition like the back of his hand.
Breaking Down a Santa Maria Style Spread
We asked Ray what makes Santa Maria Style barbecue truly authentic. It came down to red oak coals, an open pit, and a simple dry rub of salt, pepper, and garlic. Ray said, “If you’re going to call it Santa Maria Style barbecue, those elements have to be the base.”
And now, for the great debate: to sauce or not to sauce the meat? Santa Maria Style barbecue skips the sauce—that’s a Kansas City and Carolinas thing.
Ray encourages people to understand a style’s foundation first. What you do after, well, that’s between you and your plate.
How the Cut Changed the Cook
Long before tri-tip was deemed California’s cut, Central Coast pitmasters were serving up top sirloin. They’d section the meat into thirds, thread the pieces onto a rod, and cook over red oak coals. No grill grate needed. Though this cooking method has become less common, you can still catch pitmasters using it at Elks and events around Los Alamos.
But tri-tip’s rise in popularity changed the setup just as much as the menu. An adjustable grilling screen makes more sense when you’re cooking tri-tip, linguica, and garlic bread at the same time.
A Meal’s Supporting Cast
A Santa Maria Style spread isn’t complete without the sides. The traditional lineup includes:
- Pinquito beans
- Garlic bread (toasted then dipped in melted butter, according to Ray)
- Green salad
- Salsa
- Macaroni salad
In addition to the classics above, Ray’s menu at Whiskey Bent BBQ tells a more personal story. The bacon fried rice comes from his Japanese grandmother, who used to make it with leftover rice in the morning. The mac and cheese uses beef tallow instead of butter.
Every dish traces back to someone. A family recipe. A shared table. Santa Maria Style barbecue has worked that way since the mid-1800s, when local ranchers hosted Spanish-style feasts for their vaqueros and neighbors. This food doesn’t exist without the gathering around it.
Coming Together Around the Table
In other parts of the country, barbecue is a patience game played behind closed smoker doors. (We’re all picturing that friend who tends to a smoker alone for 14 hours.)
Santa Maria Style is the opposite. The cook is the event—that’s one of the biggest reasons Ray believes this method has endured for centuries. You show up as the fire starts up, hang around while the coals burn down, and stay for 2-3 hours as the meat cooks.
Some of Ray’s fondest memories involve being together while cooking. He recalls a childhood full of barbecuing at home, with his mother at the helm. Nowadays, he enjoys meals with his family and supports local nonprofits with his culinary talents. Ray regularly attends community events, where he grills hundreds of pounds of meat in a weekend.
What are Ray’s Favorite Barbecue Spots?
Whether you’re a local looking for a hidden gem or you’re planning a visit to the Central Coast, Ray has a couple of spots he thinks you’ll enjoy:
If you’re in the area on other days of the week, rest assured. There are plenty of restaurants serving up Santa Maria Style barbecue. This is one cuisine you’ll want to save room for in your trip itinerary!
Want to Bring Santa Maria Style Home?
Ray’s approach to tri-tip is straightforward, but every step matters.
- Pick up choice or prime-grade protein. Trim the silver skin, and keep the fat.
- Season generously with salt, pepper, garlic, and a touch of parsley. Ray warns that underseasoning is the most common mistake with tri-tip.
- Let it dry brine overnight in the fridge.
- The next day, pull it out and let it come to room temperature before it goes anywhere near the heat, between one and six hours on the counter. The goal is an even cook — cold meat on a hot grill means a charred outside and a blue center. Aim for 125 degrees internal, and build a crust on every side.
- Once at room temperature, throw it on the grill. Start meat-side down, then keep rotating. Tri-tip is three-dimensional after all. (Don’t have a Santa Maria grill? Try a reverse sear. Low oven at 250 degrees, then finish in a screaming-hot cast iron or under the broiler.)
- Always rest the meat. Ray recommends 20 minutes minimum, so the juices stay locked in.
When asked how aspiring pitmasters can learn or get into a career, Ray said, “Get involved with a nonprofit or community group that barbecues regularly. You might start on bread or salad duty, but if you pay attention and keep an open mind, you’ll pick it up.”
Thirty-five years after earning that first apron, Ray’s still learning. His parting advice: Don’t get stuck in one way of doing things. Watch how others cook. Try their food. The tradition is the starting point, not the ceiling.
